QIDI Cool Plate: Installation, Cleaning & 6-Month Review
After 6 months and 217 prints with the QIDI Cool Plate ($99.99) on a QIDI Plus 4, the plate achieved a 98.6% first-layer success rate across PLA and PETG, with zero coating damage from proper cleaning, and the dual-sided design means the second side is still brand new — making it the most reliable and lowest-maintenance build plate we have tested for PLA and PETG.
This is the complete long-term review of the QIDI Cool Plate. We cover unboxing, step-by-step installation, Z offset calibration, temperature tuning, print removal techniques, cleaning and maintenance, a 6-month reliability log with 217 prints, filament compatibility tests, cost analysis, and troubleshooting. If you are considering the Cool Plate for your QIDI Plus 4 or Q1 Pro, this guide tells you everything.
Product Overview
The QIDI Cool Plate is a spring steel build plate with a proprietary low-temperature super-sticky coating, designed exclusively for PLA and PETG. It comes in two sizes: 305x305mm for the QIDI Plus 4 and 245x245mm for the QIDI Q1 Pro. The coating is applied to both sides, effectively doubling the usable life.
Specifications
| Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
| Product | QIDI Cool Plate |
| Price | $99.99 USD |
| Base Material | Spring steel, 0.5mm |
| Coating | Low-temp super-sticky, 0.05mm per side, dual-sided |
| Color | Blue |
| Size (Plus 4) | 305 x 305 mm |
| Size (Q1 Pro) | 245 x 245 mm |
| Max Temperature | 120°C |
| PLA Bed Temp | 30-50°C (recommended 45°C) |
| PETG Bed Temp | 50-70°C (recommended 70°C) |
| Compatible Filaments | PLA, PLA+, PETG, PETG+ |
| Not Compatible | ABS, ASA, nylon, TPU, silk PLA, PC, CF |
| Net Weight | 500g (Plus 4) / 350g (Q1 Pro) |
| Cleaning | Water + mild detergent (no acetone, no IPA) |
| Warranty | 90 days manufacturer, 30-day free return |
Unboxing
The Cool Plate arrives in a flat QIDI-branded box with the plate protected by a cardboard sleeve. Inside the box: the Cool Plate itself (with a protective film on both sides that must be removed before use), and a small instruction card. No additional accessories are included — the scraper for print removal comes with your printer.
The plate has a matte blue finish with "QIDI Cool Plate" and the size (e.g., "305x305") printed at the bottom edge. A small tab at the bottom makes it easy to lift from the magnetic bed. The spring steel has a slight flexibility — you can bend it about 10-15 degrees without permanent deformation, which is what enables the flex-to-release feature.
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Prepare the Printer
- Power off the printer and unplug it.
- Wait for the heated bed to cool below 40°C.
- Remove any existing build plate (PEI sheet, glass, etc.) from the magnetic base.
- Clean the magnetic base with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) to remove dust, grease, or adhesive residue.
- Verify the magnetic base is clean and flat — no debris or bumps.
Step 2: Prepare the Cool Plate
- Remove the protective plastic film from both sides of the Cool Plate.
- Wipe the print surface with a clean, dry microfiber cloth to remove any dust from packaging.
- Do NOT use isopropyl alcohol or any solvent on the Cool Plate — it will damage the coating.
- Inspect the surface for any scratches or defects from shipping. If damaged, contact QIDI support for a replacement.
Step 3: Install the Plate
- Place the Cool Plate on the magnetic base, aligning the edges with the heated bed.
- The plate should lie flat with no bubbles or lifted edges. The magnetic base will hold it securely.
- Verify the tab at the bottom of the plate is accessible for easy removal.
- Gently press across the entire surface to ensure full magnetic contact.
- Check that the plate does not shift when you push it gently — it should be firmly held.
Step 4: Calibrate Z Offset
- Power on the printer and home all axes (G28).
- Heat the bed to 45°C (PLA) or 70°C (PETG) — calibrate at the temperature you will print at.
- Heat the nozzle to 200°C (PLA) or 230°C (PETG).
- Move the nozzle to the center of the bed at Z=0.
- Perform the paper test: slide a piece of paper between nozzle and bed. There should be slight resistance.
- Adjust Z offset: if paper moves freely, lower by 0.05mm; if paper won't move, raise by 0.05mm.
- Move to each corner and repeat — the resistance should be consistent across the bed. If not, run auto-bed-leveling.
- Print a first-layer test: a 20x20mm square at 0.2mm layer height, 100% infill, 20mm/s.
- Examine the test: lines should be flat, squished to ~70-80% of layer height, merged with no gaps.
- Fine-tune Z offset in 0.02mm increments until perfect.
Step 5: Set Printing Temperatures
- For PLA: Bed 45°C, nozzle 200-210°C (first layer 210°C), fan off for first 2 layers.
- For PETG: Bed 70°C, nozzle 230-240°C (first layer 240°C), fan off for first 2 layers, then 50-80%.
- First layer speed: 20-30mm/s (slower = better adhesion).
- Do not exceed 120°C bed temperature — it will damage the coating.
6-Month Test: 217 Prints
We installed the Cool Plate on a QIDI Plus 4 (305x305mm) and used it as the primary build plate for 6 months. The printer was used for personal projects and small-batch production, averaging 35-40 printing hours per month.
Test Parameters
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Test Duration | 6 months |
| Total Prints | 217 |
| Total Printing Hours | ~220 hours |
| PLA Prints | 142 (65%) |
| PETG Prints | 75 (35%) |
| Average Print Duration | ~1 hour |
| Longest Print | 11 hours (large enclosure) |
| Printer | QIDI Plus 4 (stock firmware) |
| Nozzle | Brass 0.4mm (replaced once at month 4) |
| Bed Temp (PLA) | 45°C |
| Bed Temp (PETG) | 70°C |
First-Layer Success Rate
| Month | Prints | First-Layer Failures | Success Rate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 32 | 1 | 96.9% | 1 failure due to Z offset not recalibrated |
| 2 | 38 | 0 | 100% | Perfect month after Z offset dialed in |
| 3 | 41 | 1 | 97.6% | 1 failure due to dirty plate (fingerprints) |
| 4 | 35 | 0 | 100% | Cleaned plate before every print |
| 5 | 37 | 1 | 97.3% | 1 PETG failure — large flat part, needed brim |
| 6 | 34 | 0 | 100% | Used brim for all large PETG parts |
| Total | 217 | 3 | 98.6% | All 3 failures were user error, not plate defect |
Verdict: 98.6% first-layer success rate over 6 months. All 3 failures were caused by user error (not recalibrating Z offset, fingerprints on plate, forgetting brim for large PETG part) — zero failures due to plate defect or coating wear.
Print Removal Results
| Removal Method | PLA Prints | PETG Prints | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Popped off on own (cooled) | 85 (60%) | 28 (37%) | 113 (52%) |
| Flex-to-release | 48 (34%) | 35 (47%) | 83 (38%) |
| Plastic scraper needed | 9 (6%) | 12 (16%) | 21 (10%) |
| Print damaged during removal | 0 | 1 (large flat part) | 1 (0.5%) |
Verdict: 90% of prints removed by flexing or waiting for cooling — no scraping needed. Only 10% required a plastic scraper, mostly PETG with large flat footprints. One PETG part was damaged because we tried to remove it before the plate fully cooled. Lesson: always wait for full cool-down with PETG.
Coating Wear After 6 Months
After 217 prints on side 1:
- Visual inspection: Minor surface scratches visible at certain angles, but no coating peeling, gouges, or bare spots. The blue color is uniform.
- Adhesion test: Printed a 20x20mm PLA test square — adhesion was still perfect, identical to month 1.
- Edge thickness: The top edge has slightly thicker paint accumulation as noted in the specs — this is normal and does not affect printing.
- Flatness: The plate remains flat with no warping or curling. Magnetic contact is uniform across the entire surface.
- Estimated remaining life (side 1): ~200-300 more prints based on current wear rate.
- Side 2: Still brand new (protective film removed but never used).
Verdict: After 217 prints, the coating shows minimal wear and adhesion is unchanged. At the current rate, side 1 will last approximately 400-500 prints, and side 2 will add another 400-500 — total 800-1000 prints per plate.
Filament Compatibility Tests
PLA Test (142 prints)
PLA performed flawlessly on the Cool Plate. At 45°C bed temperature, every PLA print adhered perfectly. Large flat parts (200x200mm+) showed zero edge lift or warping — a significant improvement over PEI at 60°C, where we occasionally saw minor corner curl. The matte bottom finish on PLA prints was consistent and professional-looking. Small parts with 5x5mm footprints stuck firmly and did not scatter when removing the plate.
PETG Test (75 prints)
PETG also performed very well at 70°C. Unlike smooth PEI, where PETG can fuse to the surface and tear the coating, the Cool Plate's coating released PETG cleanly when cooled. The only issue was with very large flat PETG parts (150x150mm+), which occasionally required a brim for reliable adhesion. We did not experience any PETG fusion or coating damage — a major advantage over smooth PEI.
Silk PLA Test (Not Recommended)
We tested silk PLA despite QIDI's warning, and the result confirmed the recommendation. Silk PLA adhered extremely strongly to the Cool Plate — so strongly that removing the print tore a small section of the coating. We do not recommend silk PLA on the Cool Plate. Use PEI or glass with a glue stick for silk PLA.
ABS Test (Not Compatible)
We attempted one ABS print at 100°C bed temperature (within the 120°C limit). The ABS did not adhere well — the coating is not designed for ABS, and the print detached at layer 3. ABS requires a different surface chemistry (PEI or G10) and typically needs an enclosure. Do not use the Cool Plate for ABS.
Cleaning & Maintenance Guide
Regular Cleaning (Every 5-10 Prints)
- Wait for the plate to cool to room temperature.
- Remove the plate from the magnetic base.
- Wipe the print surface with a clean, dry microfiber cloth or a slightly damp cloth.
- For light residue, a dry wipe is sufficient.
- Air-dry completely before placing back on the magnetic bed.
Deep Cleaning (Every 20-30 Prints or When Adhesion Drops)
- Remove the plate from the printer and let it cool.
- Wash the print surface with warm water and a small amount of mild dish detergent.
- Use a soft sponge or microfiber cloth — do not use abrasive scrubbers.
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all soap residue.
- Air-dry completely (do not use paper towels — they leave lint).
- Inspect the surface — it should feel slightly tacky when clean.
- Place back on the magnetic bed and print a test square.
- Acetone — dissolves the adhesive coating
- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) — damages the coating over time
- Other organic solvents (MEK, ethanol, etc.)
- Abrasive scrubbers or steel wool — scratches the soft coating
- Sharp metal scrapers — gouges the coating
Print Removal Best Practices
- Always wait for the plate to cool to room temperature (25-30°C). The coating loses tackiness as it cools.
- Remove the plate from the magnetic base by lifting the tab.
- Gently flex the plate — most prints will pop off. Bend along the long axis first, then the short axis.
- If a print is stuck, wait 5-10 more minutes for complete cooling, or place the plate in a cool area for 2-3 minutes.
- Use the plastic scraper included with your printer for stubborn prints. Gently lift an edge, then pry carefully.
- Never use a sharp blade — the coating is soft and can be permanently gouged.
Storage
- Store the plate flat in a dry area when not in use.
- Do not stack heavy objects on the plate — it can permanently bend the spring steel.
- Keep away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
- If storing for long periods, leave the protective film on the unused side.
Cost Analysis
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Purchase Price | $99.99 |
| Prints in 6 Months | 217 |
| First-Layer Failures Prevented | ~35 (vs 16% failure rate on old PEI) |
| Average Filament Wasted per Failure | 50g |
| Average Filament Cost | $25/kg |
| Filament Saved (6 months) | 1,750g = $43.75 |
| Printer Time Saved | ~140 hours |
| Energy Savings (45C vs 60C bed) | ~$0.36/month = $2.16 (6 months) |
| Total Value Generated (6 months) | ~$45.91 (filament) + time value |
| Estimated Total Prints (dual-side) | 800-1000 |
| Cost per Print | $0.10-0.13 |
| Break-Even Point | ~12-18 months (filament cost only) |
| Break-Even (including time value) | ~4-6 months |
Common Issues & Troubleshooting
Issue: PLA not sticking to Cool Plate
Causes: Z offset too high, dirty plate, bed temperature too low, protective film not removed.
Fixes:
- Verify the protective plastic film was removed from both sides.
- Lower Z offset by 0.05mm and run a first-layer test.
- Clean the plate with water and mild detergent, air-dry completely.
- Increase bed temperature to 50°C (from 45°C).
- Ensure the cooling fan is off for the first 2 layers.
- Reduce first-layer print speed to 20mm/s.
Issue: PETG sticking too well
Causes: Bed temperature too high, removing before plate cools, large flat footprint.
Fixes:
- Wait for the plate to cool completely to room temperature (25-30°C) before attempting removal.
- Lower bed temperature from 70°C to 60-65°C.
- Use a brim for large flat PETG parts — the brim releases first, making the part easier to remove.
- Gently flex the plate — do not pry with a sharp tool.
- If still stuck, place the plate in a cool area (not freezer) for 5 minutes.
Issue: Plate not lying flat on magnetic base
Causes: Debris on magnetic base, plate bent, magnetic base damaged.
Fixes:
- Clean the magnetic base with IPA to remove debris.
- Check the plate for bends — gently flatten by hand if slightly warped.
- Verify the magnetic base is clean and undamaged.
- If the plate is permanently bent, contact QIDI support for a replacement under warranty.
Issue: Coating damaged or peeling
Causes: Sharp scraper, acetone/IPA cleaning, silk PLA, exceeding 120°C.
Fixes:
- Minor scratches do not affect adhesion — continue using.
- If coating is peeling in a large area, flip to the second side (dual-sided design).
- If both sides are damaged, replace the plate.
- Prevent future damage: use plastic scraper only, clean with water+detergent, no silk PLA, max 120°C.
Issue: Adhesion inconsistent across the bed
Causes: Unlevel bed, Z offset only calibrated at center, plate not flat.
Fixes:
- Run auto-bed-leveling (ABL) on the QIDI Plus 4/Q1 Pro.
- Check Z offset at all 4 corners + center using the paper test.
- Verify the plate is lying flat on the magnetic base (no debris underneath).
- Print a 5-point bed leveling test to identify problem areas.
Installation Checklist
- ☐ Power off printer, cool bed below 40°C
- ☐ Remove old build plate, clean magnetic base with IPA
- ☐ Remove protective film from both sides of Cool Plate
- ☐ Wipe Cool Plate with dry microfiber cloth
- ☐ Place Cool Plate on magnetic base, verify flat
- ☐ Power on, home axes, heat bed+nozzle to print temp
- ☐ Calibrate Z offset (paper test at center + 4 corners)
- ☐ Run auto-bed-leveling (ABL)
- ☐ Print first-layer test (20x20mm square)
- ☐ Fine-tune Z offset in 0.02mm increments
- ☐ Set correct bed temp (PLA 45°C, PETG 70°C)
- ☐ Set fan off for first 2 layers
- ☐ Start printing — enjoy 98%+ first-layer success
Final Verdict
The QIDI Cool Plate is the best build plate for PLA and PETG on QIDI Plus 4 and Q1 Pro printers.
After 6 months and 217 prints, the Cool Plate delivered a 98.6% first-layer success rate with zero coating defects. The dual-sided design means we have only used half the plate's lifespan. The low 45°C bed temperature for PLA saves energy and reduces warping. Print removal is effortless — 90% of prints pop off with a simple flex. The only real downsides are the $99.99 price (premium vs generic PEI) and the PLA/PETG-only limitation.
Who should buy it: QIDI Plus 4 and Q1 Pro owners who print primarily PLA and PETG, especially those who print large parts, run print farms, or have struggled with first-layer adhesion on other surfaces.
Who should not buy it: Users who print ABS, nylon, TPU, or engineering filaments (need PEI or G10). Users with non-QIDI printers (no official support). Budget users who only print occasionally (glass+glue is cheaper).
Bottom line: If you own a QIDI Plus 4 or Q1 Pro and print PLA/PETG, the QIDI Cool Plate is the last build plate you will need to buy for several years. It is reliable, low-maintenance, and produces consistent results every time.
